If your property has a well, you have a water source that does not depend on municipal infrastructure, treatment plants, or distribution pipes. What most well owners do not realize until the power goes out is that they also have a water source that does not work without electricity. A submersible electric pump sitting at the bottom of a well casing is completely inaccessible without power — you have water 50 feet below you and no way to reach it. The well that should be your greatest resilience asset becomes a source of frustration at exactly the moment you need it most.
A hand pump conversion changes that. It installs a manually operated pump alongside the existing electric system — not replacing it, not interfering with it — that can draw water from the well using nothing but human effort. When the grid is up, you use the electric pump as normal. When the grid is down, you pump by hand. The water is the same water from the same well. The only thing that changes is the mechanism that lifts it.
This is one of the highest-value infrastructure investments on a property with an existing well. The well is already there. The water is already there. The conversion adds the manual access capability that makes both of those things useful independent of the grid. It is not a small investment — a quality deep-well hand pump and professional installation runs $1,500-4,000 depending on well depth and pump type — but it is a one-time investment in infrastructure that functions for 20-30 years with minimal maintenance and provides water security that no stored supply can match for the long term.
This post covers the types of hand pumps appropriate for different well depths, what a conversion installation involves, what can be DIY’d and what requires a well contractor, and lower-cost alternatives for shallow wells and hand-dug cisterns.
WELL BASICS — WHAT YOU ARE WORKING WITH
Before selecting a pump or planning a conversion, understand your well’s specific parameters. These determine which pump types work and which do not.
Well depth: The total depth from the surface to the bottom of the well casing. Found on your well log — a document that should have been provided when the well was drilled, and that is on file with your county health department if you don’t have a copy. Well depth determines the maximum lift requirement.
Static water level: The depth from the surface to the water surface inside the well casing when the pump is not running. This is the actual lift your pump must overcome — not the well depth, but the distance from surface to water. A 200-foot deep well with a static water level at 80 feet requires a pump that can lift 80 feet, not 200. Static water level is measured by a well driller or with a weighted tape measure lowered into the casing.
Well casing diameter: Most modern drilled wells have 4-inch or 6-inch steel or PVC casing. Some older wells have 2-inch casing. Casing diameter determines whether a hand pump can share the well with the existing electric pump or whether one must be removed to install the other. In a 6-inch casing, most hand pumps can be installed alongside the existing electric pump with no conflict. In a 4-inch casing, the options are more limited. In a 2-inch casing, most standard hand pumps cannot be installed at all without casing modification.
Pump type (existing): Submersible pumps sit at the bottom of the well casing and push water up. Jet pumps sit at the surface and pull water up — these are only practical for wells with static water level within 25 feet of the surface for single-pipe jets, or 100 feet for deep-well two-pipe jets. Knowing your existing pump type affects how a manual pump is installed alongside it.
Recovery rate: How fast the well replenishes after pumping — measured in gallons per minute (GPM). Found on your well log. A well with a low recovery rate (less than 1 GPM) requires pacing your hand pumping to avoid drawing the well down below the pump intake.
PUMP TYPES BY WELL DEPTH
Hand pumps are not interchangeable across well depths. The physics of lifting water constrains the design — a pump that works for a 20-foot well fails completely at 100 feet, and a pump designed for 200 feet is unnecessary and expensive overkill for a 30-foot well.
Shallow Well Pumps (Static Water Level 0-25 Feet)
Pitcher pump (suction pump): The classic cast iron hand pump found on farmsteads throughout the 19th and early 20th century. Operates by suction — a piston creates negative pressure that draws water up the pipe. Maximum practical lift: 25 feet. Above this, atmospheric pressure cannot support the water column regardless of pump design.
Cost: $50-200. Installation: DIY-accessible for anyone comfortable with basic plumbing. Installed above the well casing with a drop pipe extending to the water. Primes by pouring water into the pump body before pumping.
Appropriate for: Shallow hand-dug wells, cisterns, and any water source with static level within 25 feet. Not appropriate for modern drilled wells, which typically have water levels below 25 feet.
Shallow well convertible jet pump (manual version): Less common but available — a manually operated version of the single-pipe jet pump principle. Same 25-foot limit applies.
Deep Well Pumps (Static Water Level 25-300+ Feet)
Deep well hand pumps work differently from shallow pumps — they cannot use suction because the physics do not allow it. Instead, a long pump rod extending from the surface down into the water column mechanically operates a cylinder (the working parts) that is positioned below the water surface. The cylinder pushes water up — it does not pull. This is called a positive displacement or lift pump.
Simple Force Pump / Flojak-type (25-150 feet): A category of relatively simple deep well hand pumps using a polypropylene or aluminum pump rod and cylinder dropped into the well alongside the existing electric pump. The Flojak is the most widely known brand in this category. These pumps are designed for DIY installation — the pump rod and cylinder are lowered into the well on the existing drop pipe or a separate pipe, connected to a surface-mounted pump head, and secured to the well cap.
Cost: $300-800 depending on depth kit required. Installation: DIY for most homeowners with basic mechanical aptitude. Designed specifically for installation alongside an existing submersible electric pump in a 4-inch or larger casing. Does not require removing the existing pump. Yield: 5-10 gallons per minute of pumping effort for most models.
Appropriate for: Most residential drilled wells with static water level to 150 feet. The practical first choice for the majority of well-owning households considering a hand pump conversion. The cost-to-capability ratio is better than full deep well pump installations for wells in this depth range.
Traditional Deep Well Cylinder Pump (50-300+ feet): The serious long-term installation. A cast iron or stainless steel cylinder is installed at the bottom of the pump drop pipe, positioned 10-20 feet below the static water level. A pump rod connects the cylinder to a surface-mounted pump head with a long handle. Every stroke of the handle moves the pump rod, which operates the cylinder, which lifts water.
Brands: Bison Pumps, Simple Pump, Baker Monitor, Heller-Aller. These are manufactured products with decades of track record, designed to last 20-30 years with minimal maintenance.
Cost: $1,500-4,000 installed, depending on depth and brand. Professional installation strongly recommended for wells over 100 feet — the cylinder and drop pipe assembly is heavy, precise positioning matters, and the installation requires well service equipment for deep installations. DIY installation is possible on shallower wells (under 100 feet) for mechanically confident homeowners with specific preparation.
Yield: 1-5 GPM depending on cylinder size and pump stroke. Adequate for household water needs with sustained pumping.
Appropriate installation depth by brand:
- Simple Pump: up to 325 feet static water level.
- Bison Pumps: up to 300 feet.
- Baker Monitor: traditional design, up to 200+ feet.
INSTALLATION — WHAT IS INVOLVED
DIY-Accessible (Flojak and Similar Drop-In Systems)
These systems are designed for homeowner installation and are genuinely DIY-accessible with preparation. The process:
- Measure your well: static water level, casing diameter, existing pump wire routing. Do this before ordering any pump — the depth kit required depends on static water level, not well depth.
- Order the appropriate pump and depth kit for your static water level plus a 10-foot safety margin (water level drops under heavy pumping).
- Remove the well cap. Identify the existing pump wiring and drop pipe. In a 6-inch casing, there is typically adequate room to lower the hand pump alongside the existing assembly. In a 4-inch casing, it is tight — confirm clearance dimensions with the pump manufacturer before purchasing.
- Lower the pump rod and cylinder assembly into the well alongside the existing drop pipe, following manufacturer instructions precisely. The cylinder must be positioned below the static water level.
- Connect the pump rod to the surface pump head. Secure the pump head to the well cap or a separate mounting bracket. Replace the well cap, routed around both the existing pump wiring and the new pump rod.
- Prime and test.
Total time: 2-4 hours for a straightforward installation. The most common complications are casing clearance issues (4-inch casings are tight), pump rod length miscalculation, and well cap sealing after the installation. All are solvable with preparation.
Professional Installation Required (Traditional Deep Well Cylinder Pumps)
For wells over 100 feet with a traditional cylinder pump installation, professional well service equipment is strongly recommended. The reasons:
The cylinder and drop pipe assembly for a 200-foot installation weighs 200-400 pounds. Lowering it into the well without a pipe puller or well service crane requires improvised equipment and carries real risk of dropping the assembly — which means recovering it from the bottom of the well, an expensive and sometimes impossible proposition.
The existing submersible pump may need to be pulled to position the hand pump cylinder correctly — submersible pump service requires a licensed well driller in most states.
The well seal — the sanitary cap that prevents surface contamination from entering the well — must be correctly installed around the new pump rod or the well loses its sanitary protection.
A licensed well driller or pump contractor who has done hand pump conversions before (specify this — not all well contractors have experience with it) handles all of these elements correctly. The installation cost is the cost of doing it right rather than troubleshooting a contaminated or damaged well afterward.
Finding a contractor: Contact your state well driller association or county health department for licensed drillers in your area. Specify that you want a hand pump installed alongside your existing electric pump — some contractors are unfamiliar with the installation and will recommend removing the electric pump, which is not necessary and defeats the purpose of the dual-system approach.
WELL CAP AND SANITARY SEAL
Any hand pump installation that penetrates the well cap must maintain the sanitary integrity of the well. The well cap is the barrier that prevents surface water, insects, and contaminants from entering the well casing and contaminating the water supply. A poorly sealed installation around the pump rod is a contamination pathway.
Bison Pumps, Simple Pump, and other quality manufacturers provide well cap modifications designed to seal around the pump rod while maintaining sanitary closure. Use these. Do not improvise a seal with caulk or tape — these degrade and fail.
After any installation that disturbs the well cap, shock chlorinate the well: pour a dilute bleach solution (1 cup unscented 8.25% bleach per 50 gallons of well water volume) into the well casing, run water through all household fixtures until you detect chlorine smell, then allow the solution to sit for 12-24 hours before flushing the system and returning to normal use. This disinfects any contamination introduced during installation.
ALTERNATIVES FOR SHALLOW WELLS AND CISTERNS
If your property does not have a drilled well but has a hand-dug well, a spring box, or a buried cistern with static water level within 25 feet of the surface, the options are simpler and less expensive.
Pitcher pump on an existing shallow well: A cast iron pitcher pump installed over a 1¼-inch or 2-inch drop pipe reaching the water is a complete, functional, durable installation for $50-200 in materials plus 2-3 hours of work. These pumps are available at farm supply stores, rural hardware stores, and online. Installation requires nothing more than basic pipe threading skills.
Prime the pump before first use by pouring water into the body and pumping vigorously — suction pumps require a continuous water column from pump to water surface to operate. A well-primed pitcher pump on a shallow well should prime itself after sitting idle, but prime manually if it does not draw within 10-15 strokes.
Hand-dug well rehabilitation: Many rural properties have abandoned hand-dug wells — brick or stone-lined wells, typically 2-4 feet in diameter, that were in use before drilled wells became standard. These are often in poor condition but may be rehabilitatable for a new pitcher pump installation. Inspect for: structural integrity of the lining, absence of surface contamination sources within 50 feet, static water level, and water quality. A rehabilitated hand-dug well with a quality pitcher pump is a functional water source at minimal cost.
Cistern access: A buried cistern — concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene — with water stored inside and a top opening accessible from grade can be fitted with a pitcher pump the same way a shallow well is. The cistern must be sealed against surface contamination and the drop pipe must reach the water level. Add a first flush diverter if the cistern is fed by roof collection (see Rain Barrel System).
MAINTENANCE
A properly installed hand pump requires minimal maintenance but specific attention:
Leather seals and cups (pitcher pumps and traditional cylinder pumps): The piston seals in most hand pumps are leather — durable but subject to drying out if the pump sits unused for extended periods. Pump and pour a cup of food-grade vegetable oil or food-safe mineral oil into the pump body every 6 months if the pump is not used regularly. This keeps the leather seals supple and prevents cracking. A pump with cracked leather seals loses prime and requires disassembly to repair.
Pump rod inspection (deep well cylinder pumps): Inspect the pump rod connection at the surface annually. The threaded or coupled connection between the pump rod sections is subject to wear and occasional loosening. Tighten any loose connections before they become disconnected connections — a disconnected pump rod at 150 feet is a significant retrieval problem.
Well cap inspection: Check the well cap seal around the pump rod annually. Any cracking, lifting, or visible gap is a contamination pathway. Reseal with manufacturer-approved materials.
Winter (for surface components): In climates with hard freezes, drain the pump body before the first hard freeze if the pump head is above grade. Most quality deep well hand pumps have drain holes in the cylinder that automatically drain the above-ground portions after pumping ceases — verify this feature with your specific pump. A pump body that freezes solid with water in it typically cracks the cast iron body, destroying the pump head.
Annual water testing: Any change in water taste, color, or odor warrants immediate testing. Test annually for coliform bacteria at minimum — test kits are available at hardware stores or through county health departments. A well conversion that introduces contamination will show in water testing before it shows in symptoms.
COST SUMMARY
| Pump Type | Well Depth Suitable | DIY? | Cost Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pitcher pump (shallow) | 0-25 ft static | Yes | $50-200 + pipe |
| Flojak / drop-in hand pump | 25-150 ft static | Yes | $300-800 |
| Simple Pump (professional grade) | Up to 325 ft static | Partial | $800-1,500 + installation |
| Bison Pump (professional grade) | Up to 300 ft static | Partial | $1,000-2,000 + installation |
| Traditional cylinder pump (installed) | 50-300+ ft static | No (deep wells) | $1,500-4,000 installed |
Installation costs for professional work vary significantly by region — $500-1,500 for a straightforward hand pump installation alongside an existing submersible in a 6-inch casing is a reasonable expectation in most of the US.
FINAL THOUGHTS
A hand pump conversion is the single infrastructure investment that most directly addresses the gap between “I have a well” and “I have water when the grid is down.” That gap is not theoretical — it materializes every time a severe storm takes out power for more than a day, every time an ice storm closes roads and kills pumps, every time infrastructure fails in the ways infrastructure fails.
The water is already there. It has been there since before your house was built, accumulating in aquifers that predate any grid. The pump is the only thing standing between that water and your household. Install one that works without power. The well that has always been your property’s greatest water asset becomes unconditionally available instead of conditionally functional.
One pump. Twenty years of grid-independent water. Do the math.
For treating well water to confirmed potable quality, see Gravity Water Filter Build in DIY Schematics. For supplementary water collection from rain, see Rain Barrel System. For water storage targets, treatment, and testing, see The Storage Blueprint in the Field Rations Archive. For what water contamination does to the body and how to support recovery, see Know Your Water on kanafia.com.